Balang – once among (if not the) the most important birding sites in Sichuan. A variety of developments, mostly negative, have brought about some big changes. However, most of the important species that were formerly found here, and now made difficult by increased traffic or new access problems, can now be found at other sites
The old road onto the top pass - now closed for motor traffic and, although you may be able to sneak up there, officially closed for hiking. This is due to a fatal accident and new safety laws for national parks. The new road now goes through an 8.8km long tunnel and the closures start at both ends of this. On the east (Wolong) side, there’s a guard who lives in a hut, with an alarm system to alert him if anybody tries to pass. If you can get past there’s 4.5km of walking uphill that starts at 3,800m going up to a bend at 30.897078° 102.924284°, at 4,000m – not that steep and on an old, deserted road, but still a stiff trek at these altitudes. The bend brings you to an area where you have chances of decent views of the major species – Tibetan Snowcock, Snow Partridge, Chinese Rubythroat, Kessler’s Thrush, Alpine Thrush, Grandala, Red-fronted Rosefinch – but unfortunately a lot more difficult than the old days of just being able to drive the road. The alternative, at the east tunnel entrance, is to scope the ridges and watch for snowcock/partridge/grandala – but these invariably are only brief and distant flight views at considerable distance. Most of the species you see here you can get at other sites – but good views of Grandala, Red-faced Rosefinch and Alpine Thrush become more difficult.
On the west (Rilong) side there’s presently no guard, but the walk to birding areas, with species like snowcock and rubythroat is a lot longer – however birding at where the gate starts at this side is good with species like White-browed Tit Warbler, Crimson-browed Tit, Sichuan Tit, Chinese Fulvetta, Streaked Rosefinch and Blood Pheasant all present.
The Monal site (Chinese Monal, White Eared Pheasant, Koklass Pheasant, Chestnut Throated Partridge, Blood Pheasant) - still open (the old road, replaced by a short tunnel at 30.881855° 102.965614°) but since winter 22/23 has had the addition of some fencing and gates to make a very messy dung-filled sheep pens. The site has largely been deserted by the masses of Chinese photographers – there are now a couple of alternative and easier monal sites, the most popular at Kangding.
Road leading to the monal site from Densheng (30.857387° 102.971741°) – with the increase in motor traffic, both cars and heavy trucks, even early morning road watching can now be unpleasant, and road walking pheasants are generally a thing of ancient history. Increases in tourism have also brought has also seen nearly all of those little open patches where birders would find Firethroat, Sichuan Thrush and so many interesting passerines have now been taken over by illegal barbeque stands – hopefully they will eventually be moved – but in 2024 they were still degrading the best and safest birding areas off the road. Firethroat and other species are still present but there are other, more pleasant, sites to get these birds.
Wolong and Lama Temple – Lama temple now has a hide, with Golden Pheasant and Red-winged and Barred Laughingthrushes. Hopefully this hide will remain open and but even without feeding birds come in for water. This area also has Firethroat.
A raised tourist railway, on huge concrete stilts, is being built all the way from Dujiangyan to Rilong and there’s considerable construction work to Dengsheng – although this doesn’t seriously impact birding possibilities it has made roadside birding difficult and is another source of traffic and disturbance.
New Wolong site, Genda – road leading up valley behind the new Panda Centre (31.105332° 103.322480°). Gives another chance for Temminck’s Tragopan, and Barred/Red-winged Laughingthrush